Brazil is hot and on the rise as an important economic powerhouse and as an exhilarating and good-times vacation destination. And why not? For Brazil is the giant of South America, not only its largest country covering approximately 50 percent of the entire continent—but a nation well-endowed with beautiful people and places. Brazil’s siren call is more than the bikini-clad girl from Ipanema or the razzle-dazzle of its famous Carnaval. Listen again for the raves about miles of spectacular beaches, baroque colonial towns, the awesome Amazon, and everywhere, the beat of the samba.

SAO PAULO
Some call her Brazil’s “Big Apple,” but Sao Paulo is bigger than New York—585 sq. miles and more than 12 million people. In fact, she’s South America’s largest metropolis, as well as the country’s corporate and industrial core. And because business is Sao Paulo’s business, it enjoys the fringe benefits of hosting most of Brazil’s best restaurants, nonstop nightlife, and hotels, such as the chic Fasano with its fabulous restaurant and rooftop spa, or another boutique-style property, the Emiliano. And everyone’s talking about the most recent addition to the “design” hotel scene—Unique, an elegantly modern marvel whose rooftop dining lounge, Skye, is a hot restaurant pick for Brazilian cuisine and grand city views. When Sao Paulo is not about business, it is about culture, for its museums add up to essential visits. Here, vacationers can enjoy a wonderful collection of Brazilian painting and sculpture at the Pinacoteca do Estado, as well as the Art Museum of Sao Paulo, known locally as MASP, whose exhibits of top Brazilian artists keep company with paintings from Rembrandt to Picasso. Visitors coming to MASP on Sunday mornings will find the antiques fair in progress under the museum’s arcades, and Sunday is also market day in Liberdade Plaza, overflowing with native crafts sold under tents in a mostly Japanese neighborhood. Monday to Saturday is the time to drop into the market hall of the Mercado Muncipal, an architectural triumph of skylights and stained glass windows illuminating stalls of fresh fish, ripe cheeses and fruit with strange names.

RIO DE JANEIRO
To just mention Rio’s name is to conjure up a kaleidoscope of picturepostcard images—the vertiginous outcrop of Sugar Loaf Mountain; the immense statue of Christ the Redeemer on the Corcovado (recently named to the New Seven Wonders of the World list); the dazzling strands of beaches; and the costumed extravaganza called Carnaval. Certainly, from sunrise to sunset, the action in Rio is focused on her beaches, forming crescents of white sand from Copacabana to Barra da Tijuca. And everyone loves to stay and play at one of Rio’s seaside hotels, perhaps the elegant Hotel Sofitel on Copacabana Beach, or Phillippe Stark’s Fasano on Ipanema, or the Marina All Suites on Leblon. Here, the choices are indeed many. And when the sun goes down, the cariocas step out for some marvelous food, including the southern Brazilian-style churrascaria, serving up all the meat one can eat at such local favorite haunts as Mariu’s and Porcao. Or, you can combine great food and excellent live music with a night out at Rio Scenarium in the Lapa district. A major part of Rio’s razzle-dazzle is the nightlife, and it doesn’t come more extravagant than at a Las Vegas-style samba revue, such as Plataforma. On the other hand, Rio is the place to step out on a Saturday evening to watch a samba school rehearsal for the annual Mardi Gras event called Carnaval. Take time out during your stay to walk about the Jardim Botanico, a 350-acre park with over 7,000 varieties of tropical plants, and certainly consider a good look around the exceptional Museum of Naive Art with its lovely collection of Brazilian folk paintings, as well as the funky Carmen Miranda Museum. And if you’re in town on a Sunday, head for some shopping bargains and fun at the Hippie Fair. Of course, good beaches are not limited to the bays of Rio and one of the favorite “escapes” from the cidade maravilhosa is Buzios, discovered in the 1960s by a bikini-clad Brigitte Bardot and now a low-key, rather secluded and fashionable haven for Rio socialites. In addition to lovely pousada accommodations and great restaurants, there are indeed some 17 sandy beach coves.

SALVADOR DE BAHIA
With a history dating to the early-1500s, Salvador was once the center of a lucrative sugar trade. The legacy of that wealth is a concentration of extravagant mansions, baroque churches and grand public buildings in the old city, called the Pelourinho, a UNESCO World Heritage site. In the past 20 years, major restoration efforts have been undertaken to dazzling effect. The waterfront, too, is undergoing a rebirth and is filled with a lively mix of first-class shops and restaurants. Lower and upper Salvador are connected by mass-transit elevators and the sights to see include the Museum of Sacred Art and the Afro-Brazilian Museum next to the Catedral Basilica. The elegant Pousada Convento do Carmo offers luxury in a former convent in the old city, while down by the sea, the new favorite is the deluxe Pestana Bahia. Dining on local cuisine, attending a folklore show, shopping in the giant Mercado Modelo and cruising to nearby islands are among the many special ingredients of a delicious visit to the place where Brazil was born.

MANAUS
More than 1,000 miles up the Amazon, Manaus is most famous for its magnificent opera house, the Teatro Amazonas, an extravagant 19th century testament to the legacy of the rubber-boom days. But of course it is the call of the wild that draws most international visitors, who come to take day trips from the city to explore the main waterways and tributaries of the Amazon basin, to take jungle walks in the rainforest and to stay at one of the many rustic but comfortable lodges. Actually, premier luxury accommodations in this corner of Amazonia are available at the colonial-style Tropical Manaus, a resort destination in itself right on the shores of the Rio Negro. The newest addition to this rainforest complex is the Tropical Manaus Business hotel. From the Amazon EcoPark Lodge, fairly close to Manaus, to the Juma Lodge and the Uakari Lodge, there are many excellent places to enjoy the full rainforest experience. Another option is to take a small boat expedition cruise for three or six days.

It Would Be a Shame to Miss...
Go north from Rio, overland or by air to Belo Horizonte and explore Brazil’s “Cities of Gold.” When the Portuguese colonizers arrived in Brazil, they didn’t all tarry along the country’s beaches, but headed inland south of Bahia where they found what they were looking for—gold, and in the 18th century, prospectors in the present state of Minas Gerais accounted for the export of 70 percent of the world’s gold production. Some of the golden wealth remained right here, to be placed over the ornate interiors of the baroque churches in the little cobblestone street-lined towns of Congonhas do Campo, Sao Joao del Rei, Tiradentes, Ouro Preto (a UNESCO World Heritage site) and Mariana. Their treasures add up to a great colonial heritage circuit, with lovely pousadas along the way. Brazil’s Amazon Basin extends far south and west to the wondrous vacation wilderness called the Pantanal, not a forested jungle but a low-lying flood plain covering an 89,000-sq.-mile area that is the largest nature reserve in South America. The region’s diversity of wildlife is remarkable: giant river otters, capybaras, anteaters, marsh deer, tapirs and some 650 bird species, including jabiru storks and roseate spoonbills. Birds and animals are easier to see here than closer to the Amazon River mainstream, with the best season for nature safaris from April through October. From Sao Paulo, fly to Cuiaba to visit the northern area, where the Araras Eco Lodge is a top choice to stay. Fly to Campo Grande to explore southern Pantanal, where Refugio Ecological Caiman is the most deluxe place to be.

Celebrations for All Seasons
Jan.: Be in Salvador de Bahia on the second Thursday for Lavagem do Bonfi m, one of the most colorful Bahian festivals.
Feb. 13-16: Circle those dates for Carnaval in Rio or Salvador or Recife in 2010.
Apr. (late) through May: Amazonas Opera Festival in Manaus.
Aug.: Go to lovely and historic Paraty anytime, but perhaps plan for the third weekend of the month for the Festival de Pinga, honoring Brazil’s well-known drink cachaca, made from sugar cane.
Oct.: Blumenau in southern Brazil celebrates its German heritage during Octoberfest.
Dec. 31: New Year’s Eve in Rio is the time for Reveillon on Copacabana Beach.

Images of gauchos, the tango, Maradona, and the world’s thickest steaks probably come to mind when considering the land called Argentina. Of course, the country’s attractions are far more numerous, and from its subtropical north to its sub-Antarctic tip, they spread over an area nearly one-third the size of Europe. Mixed in between is a good tourist infrastructure welcoming visitors to experience all the country has to offer.


BUENOS AIRES

Few cities are enjoyed as much as the Porteños—residents of the port city of Buenos Aires—enjoy their home town. It’s not only their capital of commerce, banking and culture, but the place where they have fun. B.A. is a cosmopolitan place, settled over generations by Europeans who came in search of wealth and a new life. There is a standing joke of today’s descendents: “They are Spaniards who talk like Italians, dress like the French and think they are British.” In just this new millennium, B.A. has enjoyed an extra burst of foreign tourism popularity, fueled by the favorable exchange in dollars for pesos that continues to convert to the continent’s best-ever bargains in luxury shopping and fi ne dining. This hottest of world destinations is heeding the call of its new popularity, catering to visitor demand with a bevy of new hotels from the modest to the grand. Always at the top of the list is the Alvear Palace, with a new royal spa, located in the Recoleta district in the company of other grand digs such as the Park Hyatt Palacio Duhau and the Four Seasons, while the most modern take in the upper ranges is the Faena Hotel + Universe in the Puerto Madero quarter.Capital pleasures include exploring the belle epoque buildings around fl owering Plaza de Mayo; touring the plush and gilded Teatro Colon and attending a performance in season (March through November); antiquing in the 19th century neighborhood of San Telmo and getting in on the action during the Sunday fl ea market; strolling through the open-air fair along colorful El Caminito Street in La Boca; and dining after 9 p.m. in sleek restaurants in the restored warehouses of Puerto Madero or in the trendy Palermo Hollywood district. And nowadays, of course, you can get into the swing of things by watching, learning and dancing the tango. Porteños like to escape to where the Rio Parana fl ows into the Rio de la Plata, 17 miles northwest of Buenos Aires. There they cruise,fi sh, sail, kayak and idle their weekends away. With the recent opening of the 15-cabana La Pascuala Delta Lodge and farther upstream on the Uruguayan side, the Four Seasons Resort Carmelo, travelers to B.A. can do the same. And on another day away from B.A., spend some time at an estancia, those vast working ranches that treat guests to riding out with the gauchos, playing some polo, enjoying an Argentine asado barbecue or even an elegant night or two at home on the range.

IGUAZU FALLS
In the Indian Guarani language, Iguazu means “big water.” That’s no exaggeration at Iguazu Falls in Misiones province, where a series of 275 cascades stretch along a 2.5-mile crescent between Argentina and Brazil, plunging through the rainforest into a wide gorge more than 240 ft. below. Catwalks and lookouts—particularly good at the Hotel Sheraton Iguazu Resort & Spa—offer a close look at the thundering falls, although visitors can look right down into Devil’s Throat from an airplane overfl ight. More adventurous travelers can catch the water spray during a boat ride skirting the bottom of the cascading waters.

THE LAKES DISTRICT
Both San Martin de Los Andes and Bariloche are technically located in the Patagonia, although more specifi cally in the Lakes District. San Carlos de Bariloche is charming in a European fashion. All the creature comforts are here along the hilly avenues and quaint buildings.
Chocolate-making is a tradition, and almost no visitor leaves without a sample. Activities are as varied as the landscape and include biking the Circuito Chico and whitewater rafting, fi shing and hiking around Nahuel Huapi Lake. Here, vacationers will fi nd creature comforts at the Design Suites and El Casco, as well as the famous Hotel Llao-Llao. Outside Bariloche, Las Balsas in Villa Angostora, within Nahuel Huapi National Park, is more secluded, and golfers love Arelauquin. Closer to San Martin de Los Andes, the deluxe Estancia Tipliuke is the newest option, although Estancia Rio Quillen is a favorite with anglers. Both, and others, are excellent places to both relax in the beauty of it all and explore Lanin National Park.

IN PATAGONIA
Argentina Patagonia occupies the southern third of the country. Consider flying to the gateway city of Trelew and then staying awhile at the Valdes Peninsula, a wildlife reserve and breeding ground (July-November) for sea elephants, a wide variety of marine animals, and penguins and whales cavorting off shore. Another gloriously scenic stop from the gateway of Calafatte is Glaciares National Park and Perito Moreno Glacier, a vast, towering and cracking mass of translucent blue ice that spills out of the mountains into an arm of the 600-sq.-mile Lake Argentino. Cruise among the icebergs to Upsala and Spegazzini glaciers and to Onelli Bay. For the best seat in the house amidst all this glacial glory, book into Los Notros Inn. And travelers heading to the “bottom of the world” will cross from Patagonia into Tierra del Fuego, en-route to Ushuaia, the bustling and southernmost city. Take a ride through the forests of Tierra del Fuego National Park or a local boat ride for penguin and fur seal viewing along the Beagle Channel; cruise longer through the Strait of Magellan to Chile; or head far south on a voyage to Antarctica.

THE NORTHWEST
Colonial churches, Indian artifacts and Grand Canyon-like landscapes are reason enough to visit Argentina’s great northwest, an area ripe for discovery. Here, ancient Inca and Spanish cultures share a multifaceted landscape of Andean mountains, high plateau valleys, broad prairies and lowland sugar and tobacco plantations. The area’s hot destination of the moment is Salta, where everyone is “oohing” over actor Robert Duvall’s House of Jasmines Inn, set on 30 acres. There are also fi ne hotels right in town, closer to the excellent Andean Archaeological Museum. In another corner of the region are the charming towns of Cachi and Cafayate, part of another important wine country area (the white torrontes grape is king here) of Argentina. Stop in at the Finca Las Nubes vineyard of the Michel Torino Bodega, and stay at the luxury Patios de Cafayate Lodge, whose futuristic spa offers wine treatments and splendid views.

It Would Be a Shame to Miss...
Situated along the edge of the Andes just east of the Chilean border, Mendoza is the region for touring and tasting the fruit of the vine, particularly the unique, lusty red Malbec, aged in enormous barrels. Wellorganized visits (weekdays only) to bodegas and vineyards along Los Caminos del Vino, or the Wine Route, are available. Book way ahead to stay at one of the country inns during the February to April harvest.
The accent is solidly on wine in Mendoza at the Park Hyatt Hotel, with its stylish wine bar and impressive wine library. There are a handful of lovely country inns in the countryside, including Cavas Wine Lodge and Club Tapiz, offering a deluxe mix of vineyard visits with horseback riding, hiking and river rafting. And of course, skiers may want to stop off for a day or two of fi ne wines on the way to Las Leñas, Argentina’s finest ski area; Mendoza is the air gateway.

Celebrations for All Seasons
Mar.: Vendimia Wine Harvest in Mendoza.
May-Dec.: Opera season at the Teatro Colon (late Feb./Mar., the Buenos Aires Tango Festival is on stage).
June 16: Gaucho Parade in Salta.
July-Oct.: “Summer” ski season in Bariloche, Chapelco and Las Leñas.
Aug.-Sept.: Best months for waterfall-viewing at Iguazu Falls.
Oct.: World Tango Festival is celebrated in Buenos Aires (mid-month). Eisteddfod Festival of Welsh Music and Poetry in the Peninsula Valdes town of Gaiman.
Nov.: Argentine Open Polo Championships, held in the polo ground in Palermo Park (Buenos Aires).