Since Nicaragua emerged later than its neighbors as a tourism destination, only now are travelers discovering the surprising number of things to see and do in this land of spectacular volcanoes and lakes, rainforests full of wildlife and sun-swept beaches fringing two seas, beautiful towns rich in colonial heritage, country markets packed with imaginative handicrafts and a bevy of easily accessible and get away-from-it all islands. New to the visitor scene are historic circuits such as the Route of the Coffee to the north and for the adventure traveler, the Route of the Water that follows the San Juan River from Lake Nicaragua to the Caribbean Sea.






MANAGUA

In the Nahuatl language, Managua means “where there is an extension of water.” This aptly applies to Nicaragua’s bustling capital city, for to the north is Lake Managua (known locally at Lake Xolotlan), and in the city center is the Tiscapa Lagoon. Beyond its importance as the country’s leading business center, the capital’s points of interest include the National Museum occupying the old National Palace and displaying pre-Columbian artifacts and home to a contemporary art gallery, plus the New Cathedral, a mosque-like Catholic church with 63 domes that allow the natural sunlight in to illuminate the stark interior. The best place for shopping is the Mercado Roberto Huembes, with not only the best selection of national handicrafts, but colorful stalls selling fresh vegetables, fruits and fl owers. Do go see the Ruben Dario Theater—named for Nicaragua’s poet laureate—which exhibits art by the country’s foremost painters and sculptors and is the focal point of much of the country’s cultural activities. Travelers in town for business and/or pleasure will quickly learn that there are very few street signs in Managua, so the Crowne Plaza Managua— near the malecon and the ruins of the Old Cathedral—serves as a landmark for the historic city center. In the business district, the Hilton Princess Managua is a leading choice, while the InterContinental Metro Managua is a luxury option next to the shopping mall. Among elegant boutique-style accommodations, Hotel Los Robles is one of several choices. But from any corner of the capital, no traveler has to look far to find a restaurant serving up that Nicaraguan specialty: great steak.

LEON & GRANADA: COLONIAL GEMS

Colonial Leon was the capital of Nicaragua for more than two centuries, until it was replaced by Managua in 1851. Take time to discover the city’s political, cultural and religious heritage and as a major and lively university town, it’s has found an important place in the 21st century. Leon’s Cathedral is the largest religious colonial building in Central America, full of valuable artworks from frescoes to paintings. There are other churches as well that are architectural masterpieces, such as San Juan Bautita in Subtiava (known as the Nicaraguan Rural Church), La Recoleccion and La Merced. Museums here—Arts and Legends, the house of poet Ruben Dario, and the Ortiz-Gurdian Foundation with a great contemporary art collection—exhibit their own treasures. Colonial is certainly the style in hotels and the oldest, El Convento, is a gem that was rebuilt in 1999. Founded in 1524, Granada, with its beautiful, baroque architecture, is the oldest town in Nicaragua. Its charms start right on the palmtree- fringed main square where fountains splash, ice cream vendors stroll, locals gather around the gazebo, and musicians serenade by night. Go touring from here aboard a colorfully decorated horse-drawn carriage past elegant colonial homes that come in a full palette of tropical colors and visit en-route the museum complex of Convento de San Francisco, the La Merced Church and the ruins of Leon Viejo. Along the lakeshore, there are bars and restaurants, as well as boats that take visitors to Las Isletas, known for its excellent birdwatching. For another excursion option, consider a canopy tour through the treetops of the Mombacho Volcano Cloud Forest. Popular Granada offers guests a wide choice of wonderful little places to stay, including the Hotel Colonial, tucked into an old mansion and La Gran Francia Hotel, occupying a historic inn.

LAKE NICARAGUA

At 100 miles long and 50 miles wide, Lake Nicaragua (locally called Lake Cocibolca) is the largest lake in Central America. While exploring its hundreds of volcanic islands, consider taking a boat from Granada (actually the nearby port of San Jorge) out to the largest island and ecological crown jewel, Ometepe. Accommodations here are small-inn style, but the island is fascinating for it serves as a stopping place for hundreds of migratory bird species and shelters a vast inventory of pre-Columbian petroglyphs and monolithic statuaries. On site, you can make a guided ascent of the Maderas Volcano, rent a mountain bike to ride along the coasts and through coffee plantations, kayak or just lie on a beach. Another great lake-travel option is the Solentiname Archipelago (accessible by boats from San Carlos at the southern end of the lake) that stands apart because of its natural beauty and cultural charm. Here, artist communities turned the region into the cradle of Nicaraguan naive art. Here, too, birdwatchers will be in heaven as Solentiname is a top location for this activity with the best months running from October to April and the top bird-nesting action in November and December.

BY THE SEA

The broadest and most attractive beaches in Nicaragua lie along the Pacifi c Ocean. The largest and most popular resort is the all-inclusive Barcelo Montelimar Beach Resort located 40 miles from Managua. Here, long white beaches beckon and the sea welcomes windsurfers and kayakers. Farther south along the coast is San Juan del Sur, sitting on a sand-fringed, half-moon of a bay and gateway to a dozen beautiful beaches. This picturesque and lively port town—a favorite with scuba divers, sportfishermen and surfers—is home to a few luxury resorts such as the elegant Piedras y Olas Hotel, which overlooks the sea and was an early entry in the area’s resort development, or the newest upscale entry, Hotel Victoriano, right on the beach. San Juan del Sur also happens to be the epicenter of Nicaraguan surfing and Maderas Beach is the big draw April to December. And on land, peak months for observing the nesting of Olive Ridley turtles and leatherbacks is August and September in the La Flor Wildlife Reserve.

It Would Be a Shame to Miss...
From Managua, or Granada, it is easy to plan a day trip to the Masaya National Park, home to the most accessible volcanoes in the country. A road leads up to the edge of Santiago, the most impressive of the volcanic craters, with a perfect viewpoint over the bubbling cauldron below where Pacific green parakeets nest in its crevices. Continue to the town of Masaya, the center of Nicaragua’s folklore culture, to shop ‘till you drop in the Mercado de Artesanos, a super emporium of naïve paintings and other excellent Nicaraguan crafts. A folkloric ballet is held in the market on Thursdays around 5 p.m.
Celebrations for All Seasons
Mar.-early Apr.: Holy Week, with its processions of images borne over colorfully patterned carpets of sawdust.
July 16: The Procession of the Virgin of Carmen, patron saint of fishermen, is carried around the bay to bless the boats. Seafood dining and mariachi music mark the occasion.
Aug.: During the third week of the month, Granada celebrates the Assumption of Mary with fi reworks, concerts in the park, horse parades and bullfights (note: killing the bull is illegal in Nicaragua).
Sept. 30: Masaya holds the 8-day San Jeronimo Fiesta, the most spectacular of all the country’s religious celebrations honoring its patron saint with a procession and an extravaganza of dances, marimbas, parades and fi reworks.
mid-Nov.: Baseball season. Nicaragua’s seven professional teams take the game of baseball very seriously during the season, with the championships in play Mar. 26-Apr. 4.