Tucked just south of Mexico’s Yucatan Peninsula, Belize may be a small country, but it is one widely heralded for its pristine natural beauty, Caribbean culture and strong commitment to conservation. But what specifically draws increasing numbers of travelers here every year is a magic trio of attractions: reefs—off shore the longest barrier reef in the western hemisphere beckoning to scuba divers worldwide; an ancient treasury of magnificent pre-Columbian ruins; and pristine pine- and rainforests, alive with exotic flora and fauna. And once those visitors are in place, they find a special cultural blend of Spanish, Mayan, Caribbean and British. Thanks to the latter, who were in charge of the former Crown Colony of British Honduras until independence in 1981, Belize is an English-speaking country.






BELIZE CITY

Whether for business or pleasure, all journeys begin in Belize City, the country’s cultural and commercial center, one distinguished by wonderful examples of Victorian houses with gingerbread trim. One of those historic homes has been restored and refitted at the Great House Hotel, located in the Fort George district and right next door to the seaside Radisson Fort George Hotel & Marina. Belize shows off its heritage in the Museum of Belize, housed in a former colonial prison; St. John’s Cathedral, the oldest (1812) Anglican Church in Central America; and the historic House of Culture, an early-19th century building that houses period furniture, silverware and glassware collection from British royalty times.
For visitors staying in the capital, there is a wide choice of excursions that make good half- or full-day trips. First off, there is the Belize Zoo, located 30 miles west of the capital, whose 28-acre premises shelter more than 100 different and native wildlife species—from pumas and ocelots to jaguars and the harpy eagle. Then there is the Community Baboon Sanctuary, an ecotourism project made good by farmers who look after both their farms and the once-threatened black howler monkeys. Or take off for Crooked Tree Wildlife Sanctuary, a 3,000-acre reserve whose lagoons are home to a brilliant birdlife, including the jabiru stork (best spotting is November to early May). For an amazing introduction to the world of the ancient Maya, drive 30 miles north of the capital to Altun Ha, a site covering five sq. miles with ornamental temples, palaces and pyramids. And to sample Belize’s sporting life, take off for a day of deep-sea fishing, or join up with a local dive operator to explore the marine wonders along the barrier reef.

CAYO DISTRICT

Horseback riding, mountain biking and river-tripping are the top choices for exploring and enjoying the pine forested highlands of Mountain Pine Ridge in the Cayo District, loved for its mix of dense pines and rushing rivers, waterfalls and caves. Cayo has several butterfly farms—incidentally, one, a breeding station for the regal blue morpho, is on the premises of the prestigious eco-resort, Lodge at Chaa Creek—and other natural wonders to enjoy, including the Rio Frio Cave, an awesome tunnel of stone and stalactites, with a river running through it. It was these western mountains where Francis Ford Coppola transformed his 70-acre family retreat into the award-winning Blancaneaux Lodge. But eons before the famous film director settled in the Cayo neighborhood, the lands were occupied by the Maya, whose impressive ceremonial center of Xunantunich is crowned by the 130-ft. pyramid El Castillo, just outside the main town of San Ignacio. In this same corner of the country, visitors should devote a full day to Caracol, one of the major finds in the Mayan world and one still being explored. On this site, which covers 55 sq. miles, some 4,000 structures have been recorded and more than 50 tombs unearthed. Another mighty Mayan city, Tikal in Guatemala, is a day trip away from the Cayo District.

THE CAYES

Paunch, Crawl, Silk, Swallow, Tostado and Coco Plum are just some of the more than 200 cayes speckling Belize’s Caribbean waters. The largest is the well-known Ambergris Caye, a favorite Caribbean playground and a 15-minute flight away from Belize City for those who love a vacation laced with diving, snorkeling, fishing, sailing, sunset cruising, birding and manatee watching. Scuba diving is actually the biggest attraction, and dive facilities range from dedicated dive boats to on-island recompression chambers. The Cayes also offers stellar snorkeling at Hol Chan Marine Reserve, a protected park with brilliant coral grottos and large schools of fish, and at Shark Ray Alley where stingrays and nurse sharks preside. Back on land, island visitors gather in funky and informal San Pedro Town to dine at little restaurants serving up local dishes (Elvi’s Kitchen serves Mayan buffet on Friday nights); to shop at the Belizean Arts gallery for works by locals, and to enjoy the rhythms of the nightlife beat. Of course much of the social life centers around Ambergris’ extensive roster of little inns and lodges, which range from the long-time favorites near town, such as SunBreeze Hotel & Suites and Ramon’s Village, to the now very upscale and lovely Victoria House. And, of course, there’s Cayo Espanto, sitting elegantly just off shore on a caye of its own. Even more laid-back is Caye Caulker, also with airplane and water taxi service from Belize City. Measuring five miles by one mile, this is a real go-slow vacation spot, but with a bevy of watersports, diving and snorkeling options and a direct view of the barrier reef. Also off shore, but on dry land, you’ll be surprised to find the only 18-hole golf course in Belize on the private resort island of Caye Chapel.

THE SOUTHERN COAST

The south coast’s Hopkins Village and its surrounding resorts—tops is Kanantik Reef & Jungle Resort—is a place to go to rent a kayak or windsurf board for offshore excursions or to suit up for diving along the barrier reef. Another popular choice is Placencia, a relaxed coastal paradise that lies at the tip of the sandy, 20-mile-long peninsula. The resort area has its own bevy of upscale lodgings catering to divers, to anglers out for bonefish, snook and tarpon, and to those who just want to swing in a hammock on Belize’s best beaches. All lodges and inns offer options to birdwatch along the Monkey River or in the Cockscombe Basin Wildlife Sanctuary, a 128,000-acre preserve known for its resident population of some 80 jaguars.

It Would Be a Shame to Miss...
Follow the Southern Highway from Placencia to Punta Gorda, sitting sleepily on the Bay of Honduras, and you’re in Toledo District, a justbeing discovered corner of Belize and one where the country’s Mayan heritage is alive and well to this day. The attractions range from good fishing, kayaking and canoeing on rivers and creeks to hiking to caves and waterfalls and visiting two major Mayan sites—Lubaantun, whose pyramids are made of precision-cut stone blocks and Nim Li Punit, a site with 25 stelae, one of which is the tallest in Belize. The accommodation choices are not many but there are choices: try one of the 10 cabanas at the new and deluxe Machaca Hill Lodge, located on the private 11.000-acre Laughing Falcon Reserve. Or, enlist in the Guest House Program and live in a Mayan village, staying in local homes to capture the full experience of the Mayan lifestyle.

Celebrations for All Seasons
Feb.: La Fiesta de Carnival.
Apr.-June: Divers have a “whale of a time” when swimming among the whale sharks.
May: Come for the Cashew Festival in Crooked Tree Village the first weekend in May.
Aug.: Ambergris Caye hosts the 4-day San Pedro Costa Maya Festival with pageants, parades, and nightly entertainment by groups from Central America’s Maya countries.
Sept.: Celebrate Independence on Sept. 21, although celebrations start on National Day (Sept. 10) with carnival parades and live bands.
Oct.: Belikin Beer sponsors the major Bill Fish Tournament.
Nov.: Garifuna Settlement Day Festival in Dangriga on Nov. 19, celebrating Afro-American heritage with feasting, music, and dance—punta rock rhythms were born here.

The fact that more than two million visitors came to Costa Rica in 2008 didn’t just happen by chance. The Economist magazine recently ranked Costa Rica—politically stable and economically prosperous— higher than all Central American countries for business travelers. And certainly leisure travelers—a good percentage repeat visitors—just keep coming to a country where over a quarter of the land is protected in national parks and other nature areas that beckon the eco-tourist and adventurer. As a leader in sustainable tourism, Costa Rica has seamlessly integrated plush resorts, indulgent spas and sublime eco-lodges into its gorgeous landscapes that stretch between the Pacific and Atlantic coasts—only three to four hours away from each other by land, and 45 minutes by air.




SAN JOSE

For the visitor, almost all routes lead to and from San Jose, a central and interior city—ringed by low mountains and a profusion of flowers and greenery—that is high enough (3,600 ft.) to be chilly at night. It’s also a casual place where it is said that “no one wears a tie except fi rst-time tourists and clerks.” Yet it is a capital nonetheless that offers its guests high-caliber, business-class hotels—from the small, elegant Grano de Oro Hotel, to the Marriott Costa Rica Hotel and Doubletree Cariari by Hilton, to name a few—and first-rate guesthouses. Here, vacationers will find sophisticated and informal restaurants serving up local and international cuisines, interesting craft boutiques and performances by the National Symphony Orchestra.
Many visitors make San Jose their headquarters, taking advantage of easy day trips to the countryside to visit the country’s former capital at Cartago, and Sarchi, famous for its brightly painted oxcarts (the national symbol), or to tour coffee plantations and botanical gardens, or even go rafting or volcano climbing. Today’s capital, however, is worth exploring for its own sake, and its museums are excellent: the spectacular 1,880-piece collection of the Gold Museum, located beneath the Plaza de la Cultura; the National Museum occupying the former Buenavista fortress and displaying pre-Columbian artifacts in stone, ceramic and gold, as well as colonial religious art; and the Fidel Tristan Jade Museum, housing the Americas’ largest collection of jade pieces. A special attraction is the National Theater, a gem of belle epoque architecture built at the end of the 19th century with coffee tax profits. And no visit is complete without a stop at the Mercado Central, San Jose’s most colorful indoor market. Along the way, you’ll notice that today’s San Jose is protecting its past with the restoration of historic homes in the once aristocratic neighborhoods, Amon and Otoya.
Flower fanciers will be dazzled by bromeliads, haliconias, bamboo, cacti and palms laid out in gardens covering the 27 acres of the Lankester Botanical Gardens—to catch the flowers in full bloom, visit February through April—and nature lovers shouldn’t miss a visit to INBioparque, run by the National Biodiversity Institute, to tour two large pavilions explaining Costa Rica’s natural wonders. Also just outside of San Jose, you can drive up the scenic switchback road to look down into the Irazu Volcano—the country’s highest at over 11,000 ft.—and to the Poas Volcano, some 8,650 ft. high and one of the most active. Trails through the surrounding park’s cloud forest lead close to the crater and from lookout points, you see steaming fumaroles in the bubbling cauldron of magma.

MONTEVERDE CLOUD FOREST RESERVE

Make yourself at home in an eco-friendly lodge and settle into the beauty of the 25,000-acre Monteverde Cloud Forest Reserve, located some four hours from the capital in the Tilaran mountains of the Guanacaste province. Here, you can experience the unique cloud forest environment—hiking with a guide, horseback riding, or taking a canopy tour ride—and explore the trails that crisscross a reserve sheltering 2,500 types of plants, some 400 species of birds and 110 kinds of mammals. Above all, come to see the resplendent quetzal. Mating season, February to May, is prime viewing time for this spectacularly gorgeous bird, but you can get lucky anytime. Nearby is the Santa Elena Reserve, a lovely and less-trafficked alternative.

ARENAL VOLCANO NATIONAL PARK

About a 1.5-hour drive from San Jose, the Arenal Volcano towers over the eastern shore of Lake Arenal, a magnet for windsurfers, kayakers and freshwater anglers. But the big draw here is the majestic mountain itself, one of the world’s most photogenic and active volcanoes and one that spews forth rocks and fi re from its conical summit 24 hours a day—that is definitely the big draw. However, the big sound and light show comes at night when the flows of glowing lava race down its slopes, and the best seat in the house are the nearby lodges. Nowadays there are some really lovely ones, from the Arenal Kioro Hotel, with its beautiful gardens, to the Tabacon Grand Spa Thermal Resort, offering extensive facilities for a good soak in its hot spring-fed pools. For guests staying at any lodge here, there is lots to do—aerial tram rides, canopy tours, canyoning and a Sky Walk for a special perspective on the rain and cloud forests.

THE CARIBBEAN COAST

Yes, you can fl y from San Jose to Limon, coastal gateway to the Caribbean, but traveling overland by car via Braulio Carrillo National Park offers a delightful trip, cutting across mountains and passing cattle ranches and banana plantations that are set amongst some of the country’s most beautiful scenery. North of Limon, half the fun of going to stay in the Tortuguero National Park is the cruise through a jungly network of canals—home to manatees and crocodiles—that lead to such excellent riverside lodges as Manatus Hotel or Tortuguero Lodge. Other pleasures here include listening for howler monkeys, counting the macaws and toucans and kayaking the waterways on your own. And everyone wants to be here during the nesting season of the green sea turtles that wade onto the beaches to lay their eggs (November- June). Tops for anglers are the tarpon and snook fishing from Silver King Lodge outside the park at Barra del Colorado Wildlife Refuge.

THE PACIFIC COAST

Continental Airlines’ air service into Liberia airport and the Pacifi c’s whitest beaches combine to put Guanacaste and the Nicoya Peninsula along the north coast in the vacation spotlight. And a host of established and new resort lodges and hotels are drawing increasing sun and sea vacationers. Luxury accommodations, led off by deluxe pioneers Four Seasons and Reserva Conchal—who brought spa facilities and great golf to Guanacaste—have been joined by the just-opened JW Marriott, which now shares the 4,000-acre Hacienda Pinilla Golf Resort property. Meanwhile, natural attractions serve the region well. An hour north of Liberia is Rincon de la Vieja National Park, a ruggedly beautiful habitat of one volcano and a host of geysers, fumaroles and thermal springs, while Santa Rosa National Park is a sanctuary for the Pacifi c green, huge leatherback and Olive Ridley turtles. On the Central Pacifi c coast, Manuel Antonio National Park, one of Costa Rica’s smallest protected areas, makes up for its size with its immense beauty. This most popular of preserves protects lovely crescents of white beach, rocky headlands, coral reefs and a wet tropical forest that is host to a variety of birds (184 species) and mammals, including agoutis, ocelots, two- and three-toed sloths and whitefaced, spider and howler monkeys. Park trails are easy to explore and off shore, the park’s clear waters are popular with snorkelers, scuba divers and deep-sea fishermen. There is a bevy of fi ne resort lodgings here—from the popular and hilltop Hotel Parador and Hotel Villas Si Como No, to the new and super-deluxe Arenas del Mar right by the sea. Along the Southern Pacifi c coast, the Osa Peninsula is home to the jewel of Costa Rica’s national parks system, the Corcovado National Park. Its pristine precincts from mountain forest to mangrove swamps—shelter the like of jaguar, ocelot and tapir, as well as monkeys and scarlet macaws galore, while sea turtles nest on park beaches. Make your base at one of the numerous lodges—Casa Corcovado is one high-comfort choice, the Corcovado Lodge Tent Camp is another special option—and enjoy hikes with guides along park trails followed by a plunge into the sea. Anglers should head west along the coast to Aguila de Osa Inn at Drake Bay for the best in sportfishing and scuba diving in the depths around Cano Island.

It Would Be a Shame to Miss...
Taking a canopy tour by funicular, aerial gondola, bridges and walkway, skywalks and ziplines for a bird’s-eye view of the fl ora and fauna that live in the leafy rainforest heights. Canopy touring is available in many corners of the country. Running a river, on a day trip from San Jose to Rio Reventazon, Rio Sarapiqui and Rio Corobici; the Rio Pacuare offers the big excitement and is considered world-class by river runners. Serious rafters come in July and August when the rivers are at their wildest. Going surfing, at its best along the Pacifi c coast from March to November where the most popular centers are Tamarindo, Nosara and Malpais on the Nicoya Peninsula; Jaco (for beginners and intermediates) and Playa Hermosa in the central Pacifi c. Expert surfers are heading to Punta Matapalo on the tip of the Osa Peninsula.

Celebrations for All Seasons
Feb.: See the Fiesta de los Diablitos (Festival of the Little Devils), featuring masked dancing on the Boruca Indian Reserve near Curre.
Mar.: A festival held in Escazu, Dia del Boyero, honors the oxcart drivers with a colorful oxcart parade and other festivities on the second Sunday of the month.
Aug. 2: The patron saint of Costa Rica, the Virgen de los Angeles, is celebrated with an important religious parade from San Jose to Cartago.
Oct.12: In Limon, come for Columbus Day, or Dia de la Raza, an occasion for a huge carnival-like fiesta of street dancing and parades.

El Salvador is Central America’s smallest country—just 12,596 sq. miles. Here, there are jungle-peaks that brush the sky and the Pacific coast waves attract world-class surfers in search of the perfect break. Its assortment of off-the-beaten-path travel pleasures—all surprisingly accessible along an excellent road system—includes traditional craft villages, volcanic landscapes and ruins from a Mayan past. Perhaps that is why the Maya called it Cuscatlan: land of precious things.




SAN SALVADOR

Without doubt, this capital city is the country’s commercial and cultural heart. On the economic side, it’s business travelers who spend the most time here, drawn to a country that dollarized its economy in 2001 and is rated the second freest in Latin America after Chile. Located at 2,230 ft., it sits in a large bowl with steep hills and volcanoes on several sides. Some of the best views are from the city’s best hotels in the Zona Rosa: Hilton Princess San Salvador with its Old World elegant style, but thoroughly modern amenities; and the more contemporary Radisson Hotel, with the best views. The Zona Rosa offers many eclectic restaurant choices, but some of the capital’s most interesting dining and night spots are in its malls, particularly La Gran Via and Multi Plaza. By day, visitors enjoy touring in the historic heart of San Salvador, which was founded by the Spaniards in 1539. Its Plaza Barrios is home to important buildings, including the National Palace and the Metropolitan Cathedral, recently renovated with colorful tile on the facade and painted cupola within the National Theater, with its red velvet trimmings and ceiling murals. The city also offers fine museums, including the David J. Guzman National Anthropology Museum with excellent exhibits on the ancient Maya, the Museum of Modern Art and the Museum of Popular Art. Small galleries, such as the Pinacoteca and La Luna, have ongoing exhibits by national and foreign artists.

SUCHITOTO

Just a 30-mile drive north from the capital, Suchitoto is a picturesque and charming town whose cobblestone streets are bordered by colonial-style buildings, cafes, and arts and crafts galleries. Two of the most attractive buildings are also the best inns: Los Almendros de San Lorenzo, a former sugar-cane hacienda with a fine courtyard restaurant, and Posada de Suchitlan whose restaurant overlooks Lake Suchitlan. Every weekend, the town hosts the arts festival with live music, food stands, art exhibits and stands selling crafts, natural medicines, hammocks and more, and the nightlife swings around a welcoming bevy of bars and restaurants. By day, take a boat ride on Lake Suchitlan, El Salvador’s largest lake—including a slow drift around Bird Island—or go hiking or horseback riding around Guazapa Mountain.

MAYAN MARVELS

The country’s most important Mayan discovery is Joya de Ceren, 20 miles northwest of San Salvador. The village thrived 1,400 years ago before being buried intact around A.D. 600 by the ashes of the lava eruption from Caldera Lomo. On view are adobe houses, unearthed with household goods and utensils in place. There is also an excellent museum on site. At the ruins of San Andres, abandoned around A.D. 250, you find small pyramids and ongoing excavations of the site. Not far away is El Salvador’s most recent discovery, Cihuatan, whose ball court and other Mayan structures have been beautifully excavated, and the pastoral site also has a fine little museum. Farther west is Tazamul, whose important remains are a step pyramid, ball courts and temples. Ruins in this archaeological zone lie beneath the surrounding town of Chalchupa.

CERRO VERDE NATIONAL PARK

Just a day trip away from the capital is the Cerro Verde National Park, famous for its orchid garden and trails for hiking in the company of English-speaking guides. From different points in the park, visitors have majestic views of Coatepeque Lake, a favorite with scuba divers, sailors and water skiers. Cerro Verde is the departure point for hikers who want to climb to the peak of Izalco Volcano, with its perfectly shaped, 6,183-ft-high, black lava cone and splendid crater.

COSTA DEL SOL

El Salvador’s best beaches with an accompanying bevy of resort accommodations are in the western half of the roughly 175-mile-long coast and easily accessible from San Salvador. The lovely coastal road leads to some lovely hotels. Nothing beats the little and just-opened La Cocotera, although the surfi ng-oriented but charming Tekuani Kal and Casa de Mar are good places to be, as is the 552-room, all-inclusive Royal Decameron Salinitas. Expert surfers, for whom the country is a sporting Mecca, flock here with their boards to ride the glassy, consistent swells along the beaches west of La Libertad. The top pick is world-class Punta Roca, the best wave in the country and Central
America.

It Would Be a Shame to Miss...
One of the top pleasures in visiting El Salvador is the special interest circuits offered. Ruta Artesanal, for example, highlights the country’s amazing treasury of folk arts and craftsmanship. Highlights along this folk art path include Ilobasco (specialty: clay miniatures), San Sebastian (specialty: weavings), and La Palma, full of handicraft stores selling paintings, ceramics, wooden boxes, and more—all inspired by Salvador’s most famous artist, Fernando Llort. Even the village buildings are decorated with his bright, primary-color designs. Ruta de las Flores, or Route of the Flowers, follows a scenic road northwest of the capital through a mountainous coffee-producing area, with visits to Laguna Verde, Nualhuizalco, Juaya (the weekend food festivals here are tops), Apaneca, and Concepcion de Ataco. There are lovely lodges along the way, offering guests horseback riding, hiking, birdwatching, canopy touring and mountain biking.

Celebrations For All Seasons
Feb.: Weekends are the times to be in Suchitoto for a 2-day International Festival of Arts and Culture, gathering top national and international art work and celebrating with parades, expositions, and live performances.
Mar.-Nov.: Prime months for Pacifi c coast surfing.
Apr.: Holy Week procession in Sonsonate.
July: The colonial town of Santa Ana, near Tazumal, celebrates its patron saint with parades, live music and church masses.
Aug.: Sochitoto holds a Corn Festival, whose roots date back to pre- Columbian rituals at corn harvest time. Corn is blessed and donated, followed by a mass, and stands sell traditional corn-based foods.
Nov.: In the eastern town of San Miguel, come for Fiesta Patronal in honor of the Virgen de la Paz, celebrated with a religious procession and the creation of grand and colorful sawdust carpets. Buy a hammock in Quetzaltepeque during the annual Festival de Hamacas.
Dec.: Feria de Inovacion Artesanal, the national crafts fair, is held during the fi rst week of December, drawing artisans from all over the country.

From the Atlantic to the Pacific, Guatemala is truly a one-of-a-kind destination: a country of staggering beauty, with its towering volcanoes, forested mountains and evocative Mayan ruins of unsurpassed quality. Yet what makes Guatemala most brilliantly different is its large population (more than 40 percent) of Maya people who manage in this age of the computer to sustain many of their ancient religious beliefs, their traditions in costumes and crafts, and their customs of lively weekly markets and Technicolor fiestas.





GUATEMALA CITY

The front door to this Tennessee-sized country is Guatemala City, a cosmopolitan capital that is well-endowed with fine hotels and good restaurants, excellent museums and a lively nightlife, new shopping centers and traditional markets—Mercado Central and the Artisans’ Market. The top hotels are clustered in the quarter called Zona Viva (made up of zones 9 & 10), an upscale neighborhood where dozens of old mansions have been converted to fine restaurants, nightclubs and art galleries showcasing works by contemporary Guatemalan artists, as well as boutiques full of merchandise that draw on native excellence in weaving, embroidery and jewelry-making.
Some of the city’s most impressive buildings, such as the National Palace with its historic frescoes and painted wood ceiling, border the Parque Central, and the capital’s most commanding religious building is the neoclassical Metropolitan Cathedral. The prettiest of church interiors, however, are those of La Merced and San Francisco. Making time to visit a trio of city museums is essential: the National Museum of Ethnology and Archaeology; the Ixchel Museum, which honors the country’s weaving traditions; and the Popol Vuh Museum, devoted to tracing Guatemalan civilization through its splendid collection of
artifacts. Among the top hotels favored by business and leisure travelers are Real InterContinental Guatemala, home of the well-known steakhouse, El Camino Real, Radisson Hotel & Suites, and Marriott. And no matter what your tastes, you are headed for some fine dining in the capital— traditional dishes at Kacao, Italian at Pecorino, French cuisine at Jean Francois, Spanish specialties at Donde Mikel, or Thai cooking at Tamarindo.

CHICHICASTENANGO

In the highlands, 90 miles from Guatemala City, almost everyone’s favorite market town is Chichicastenango, once the home of the Maya Quiche kings. On the main square, El Calvario Chapel faces the Santo Tomas Church, a Mecca for Indians seeking guidance and grace from the gods. Their offering to the saints of flowers and foods are made on the church steps. Come to “Chichi” on Wednesday or Saturday night to be in place for the early startup of the Thursday and Sunday market days, when hundreds of Indians from the surrounding villages bring their crafts, produce and livestock to the central plaza. Two small charming hotels, the Mayan Inn and the Santo Tomas, are within easy walking distance of all the colorful commerce.

ANTIGUA

The fabulous colonial city of Antigua has many claims to fame: as the first Spanish settlement in Guatemala in the 16th century, later as the resplendent capital of all Central America, and jumping to the 20th century (1979 to be precise) as a UNESCO World Heritage site. With its fine examples of 17th and 18th century cathedrals, convents, historic homes and flower-filled plazas, it is easy to understand why Antigua is the country’s most popular destination. Located just 30 miles from the capital, visitors often head right here from the airport, using Antigua as a base for regional touring. A city-wide restoration program gave a new glow to its colonial treasures and historic homes, many now converted to attractive B&Bs and luxury inns, including the Casa Santo Domingo (actually occupying a former monastery), the Meson Panza Verde (with one of the best restaurants in the country) and the Posada del Angel (former president Bill Clinton slept here). There are many other great boutique hotel choices, and almost as many delightful restaurants for fine dining and boutiques for great shopping.

LAKE ATITLAN

Few travelers will want to miss the magic of staying along the shores of mile-high Lake Atitlan, whose shores are rimmed with volcanoes and dotted with 12 villages of the Maya Quiche Indians. Aldous Huxley once claimed Atitlan was the world’s most beautiful lake. You’ll understand why when you book a room with a view at Hotel Atitlan or Casa Polopo outside the main town of Panajachel and take a motor launch to visit such villages as Santiago Atitlan and San Pedro La Laguna. Alternatively, you may want to hike up San Pedro Volcano, go horseback riding or mountain biking. But certainly leave time to attend the traditional market at Solola, famous for embroidered clothing and held on Tuesday and Friday.

MORE MARKET MAGIC

Consider a broader circuit of the western highlands by traveling to Quetzaltenango, the departure point to Zunil’s Monday market for textiles sold by brilliantly costumed women; to Totonicapan on Tuesdays to buy embroidered textiles and see its beautiful colonial church; and to Huehuetenango, the main town before the drive up into the Chuchumatanes Mountains and the lively Sunday market in Todos Santos village.

TIKAL & EL PETEN

In Guatemala, scarcely a month goes by without a new discovery among the ruins of the ancient Mayan Empire, concentrated in the northern rainforested region of El Peten, an hour by air to the airport at Flores from the capital. With more than 3,000 structures recorded, Tikal is perhaps the granddaddy of all Mayan ceremonial cities, which flourished from A.D. 250 to 900. Its monumental treasury covers a 25-sq.-mile area, and includes soaring temples, a marketplace, ball courts and residential dwellings. Tikal is surrounded by a 222-sq.- mile national park, a wonderland of tropical flora and fauna. Visitors can stay right at the entrance to the archaeological zone at the Jungle Lodge, or along the shores of Lake Peten Itza in top rainforest comfort at the Hotel Camino Real Tikal or La Lancha, a jungle inn creation of movie director Francis Ford Coppola. A day-trip away from the hotels in the area are Ceibal, with its finely carved stelae; Yaxha, the third largest Mayan center in Guatemala; and Uaxacutun, where among the great palaces, the Maya perfected their hieroglyphic system of writing.

It Would Be a Shame to Miss...
Teeing off: World-class golf has come to Guatemala in the shape of the La Reunion Golf Resort, featuring a new 18-hole course designed by Pete Dye. Located just outside Antigua, the par 72, 7,289-yard course includes a driving range, putting green, chipping green, and practice bunker. On site is the Club House and La Reunion Hotel, with 17 superior rooms and master suites. Coming soon are 3-bedroom villas.
Catching the “big one”: The port town of Iztapa on Guatemala’s Pacific coast is the jump-off point for some of the world’s best sailfishing. Swirling ocean currents create a natural eddy rich in bait and pelagic fish where billfish, including sailfish, blue and black marlin, as well as dorado and yellowfin tuna, gather to feed. Indeed, the world record for sailfish released in one day—75—was set here in 2000. World-class fishing is accompanied by world-class accommodations at Villas del Pacifico Resort and the Buena Vista Sportfishing Lodge.

Celebrations for All Seasons
Jan.: Flores hosts a week-long Saints’ Day Feria, with a procession honoring different saints, some borne on pretty boat fl oats.
Apr. (2009): Holy Week in Antigua welcomes a procession of costumed celebrants who reenact Jesus’ procession into Jerusalem, walking over hand-fashioned and decorative carpets of dyed sawdust and flowers laid along the route.
Aug.: During the first week of the month, Coban in the department of Alta Verapaz hosts a wonderful Indian festival, Fiesta Nacional Folklorico Rabina Ajau.
Nov.: The annual Presidential Challenge, a major sailfish competition, is held in Puerto Quetzal on the Pacifi c Ocean.
Nov. 1-2: On All Souls/All Saints Day, the highlands come alive with village festivals of traditional dances, special celebrations in the flowerfi lled cemeteries, and giant kites fi lling the sky with greetings to the deceased.
Dec. 13-21: Festival of Santo Tomas in Chichicastenango, a gala of Indian markets, dances and music.

Attractions that put Honduras solidly on the discovery circuit in Central America are the majestic Mayan ruins of Copan, towns with charming colonial churches and historic fortresses, pine-clad highlands and wildlife-rich rainforests, opportunities for ecotourism experiences on the almost wholly untouchedm Mosquito Coast, and superb snorkeling and diving off the shores of the Eden-like Bay Islands.





TEGUCIGALPA & SAN PEDRO SULA

For both business and leisure travelers, Tegucigalpa and San Pedro Sula are international air gateways. “Teguse,” as the city is familiarly called, is the capital where government and diplomatic offices, as well as international organizations are located. San Pedro Sula is the commercial heart of the country where more than 60 percent of the nation’s gross domestic produce is produced. Blessed with a beautiful natural setting, Tegucigalpa is a quirky sort of place, with narrow streets twisting up the hillside nurturing charming pockets of colonial architecture. Hotels are mostly modern structures, such as the hilltop Honduras Maya (just next door to the Casino Royale), while the boutique hotel of Portal del Angel is set in an attractive mansion. East of downtown and well-positioned next to shopping mall amenities, as well as close to governmental offices, are the Hotel Camino Real InterContinental, the Marriott Tegucigalpa and the Hotel Clarion. An outstanding visitor alternative is the National Gallery of Art, formerly a 17th century convent and now displaying works from prehistoric to colonial periods, as well as modern works by Honduras artists. Extend your stay here to buy one of your own colorful and very collectible native paintings in the nearby mountain hamlet of Valle de Angeles. Or, you can step back in time into the 16th century while exploring the art-filled church of the former mining town of Santa Lucia or go birdwatching along the cloud forest trails of La Tigre National Park.
In Tegucigalpa, make dining out part of your capital experience. For instance, high above the city is La Cumbre, offering both panoramic views and some of the best international food in town, and for Honduran dishes, as well as live mariachi music, El Patio is one of the best spots. When in San Pedro Sula, everyone likes a meal out at Don Udo’s, which cooks up continental cuisine with a Honduran flair. Another favorite spot is Pat’s Steakhouse for prime Honduran beef and seafood. After dinner you can go bar hopping in the Zona Viva or just hang out at La Cava before retiring, perhaps, to your home-away-from home at the Hilton Princess or Real InterContinental. While both business and leisure travelers may be on their way to somewhere else in Honduras, before taking off stop in for a tour around the Museum of Anthropology and History, a treasure house of pre-Columbian antiquities from Olmec and Mayan to Lenca Indian cultures. And leave time to go people-watching and shopping among the stalls of the outdoor Mercado Guamilito, at its best on weekends.

THE NORTH COAST

Nature lovers and birdwatchers are going to find the North Coast a virtual natural wonderland. Mostly by boat, explore the Cuero y Saldo Wildlife Refuge, a protected wildlife zone replete with manatees, crocodiles, howler monkeys and birdlife galore. Also in this corner of Honduras is the Lancetilla Botanical Garden, the second largest botanical garden in the world and founded by the United Fruit Company. It’s home to thousands of species of exotic plants attracting dozens of species of exotic birds. La Ceiba is the area gateway, a 125-mile drive from San Pedro Sula, and Hotel Quinta Real is a good place to hang your sombrero, as well as arrange for touring by mountain bike, kayak or canopy zipline.

THE BAY ISLANDS

A short plane ride away from San Pedro Sula or La Ceiba are the Bay Islands, a pristine archipelago that spreads out over 92 sq. miles and whose major islands—Roatan, Utila and Guanaja—float along the world’s second largest barrier reef. In clear Caribbean waters, divers and snorkelers will find that turtles and stingrays are almost as common as parrot fish, while whale sharks make themselves at home off Utila. Continental Airlines flights from the United States go nonstop to Roatan, the biggest of the Bay Islands and the Holy Grail for scuba divers, with 40 or more dive sites. Every kind of dive and snorkel experience is here for the asking—day dives, night dives, wreck diving among deep and shallow reefs made up of a variety of colorful corals, sponges and tropical marine life. Other water-bound attractions include the famous “dolphin experience” at Anthony’s Key Resort, which also offers deluxe cabana accommodations and a topnotch fleet of dive and snorkel boats. Land-based visitors will enjoy visiting botanical gardens, an iguana farm and quiet fishing villages; shopping and dining around laid-back West End town; taking a zipline ride in the rainforest canopy (a choice of four on the island); and basking on beautiful beaches. West Bay is considered the finest of island beaches and it is home to the Mayan Princess Beach Resort and the luxury, new Infinity Bay Spa & Resort.

COPAN: A MAYA WORLD WONDER

A 3-hour drive from San Pedro Sula, the archaeological site of Copan is among the most spectacular in the Americas. Its main ceremonial center covers about 75 acres with pyramids, temples, ball courts and dozens of intricately carved stelae portraying those who ruled this great city between the 5th and 9th centuries. The history of the Kings of Copan is recorded on the Hieroglyphic Staircase and treasures found in the ruins are housed on site in the brilliantly designed Museum of Sculpture, including the dazzling 4-story replica of the Rosalila Temple. Ancient Copan is one of two UNESCO World Heritage sites in Honduras (the Rio Plantano Biosphere Reserve is the other). In addition to exploring the ruins, be sure to visit Macaw Mountain Bird Reserve and perhaps go horseback riding or take a soak in the area’s hot springs. A bonus to visiting Copan is a stay in the charming and lively village of Copan Ruinas, where Marina Copan is an in-town hotel favorite, while the Hacienda San Lucas is a lovely choice on the outskirts. Soon to come is a new airport 11 miles from town, receiving small-plane flights from San Pedro Sula, Tegucigalpa, Roatan and La Ceiba.

It Would Be a Shame to Miss...
Pico Bonito National Park, the second largest national park in the country, is located on the North Coast near La Ceiba. It is most famous for having the highest peak of the Nombre de Dios mountain range, Pico Bonito, as well as for its great variety of habitats— rainforest, cloud forest and dry forest—which are home to jaguars, mountain lions, armadillos, wild pigs, monkeys, toucans, white-tailed deer, river otters, motmots and many more. A 20-mile network of trails follows the Zacate River and the churning Rio Cangrejal offers some of Central America’s most exciting whitewater rafting. All this beauty and action is most accessible from the country’s first luxury eco-entry, the Lodge at Pico Bonito, whose 20 secluded cabins are nestled in this magnifi cent rainforest, as well as from Las Cascadas Lodge on the banks of the Cangrejal River.

Celebrations for All Seasons
Jan. 25-Feb. 4: Celebration of the Virgen de Suyapa, Honduras’ national saint, culminating in a massive celebration at the basilica in Tegucigalpa.
Mar. 19: Festival of Copan Ruinas in honor of San Jose, which starts the week previous to the 19th.
Apr.: Holy Week, or Semana Santa, is a spectacle in many cities (note Santa Rosa de Copan in western Honduras and Comayagua in central Honduras), marked with elaborate parades and beautiful carpets of colored sawdust and flowers.
Apr. 12: Garifuna Festival in the village of Punta Gorda on Roatan, a carnival celebrating the arrival of the Afro-American people from the West Indies.
May: La Ceiba carnival, known as the Feria de San Isidro, is a week-long carnival of dancing and music,
June 22-24: Trujillo, the oldest town in the country, honors Saint John with a festival.
June 29: In honor of its patron saint’s day, San Pedro holds a June Fair, with events that include cattle shows and art expositions.
Aug.: Caribfest, a mega-Latino musical event, is held at the Coral Cay Nature Park on Roatan.
Dec. 12-16: In Gracias in western Honduras, a Guancasco Festival (celebrating “peace” between different communities) coincides with the Festival of Santa Lucia.

Since Nicaragua emerged later than its neighbors as a tourism destination, only now are travelers discovering the surprising number of things to see and do in this land of spectacular volcanoes and lakes, rainforests full of wildlife and sun-swept beaches fringing two seas, beautiful towns rich in colonial heritage, country markets packed with imaginative handicrafts and a bevy of easily accessible and get away-from-it all islands. New to the visitor scene are historic circuits such as the Route of the Coffee to the north and for the adventure traveler, the Route of the Water that follows the San Juan River from Lake Nicaragua to the Caribbean Sea.






MANAGUA

In the Nahuatl language, Managua means “where there is an extension of water.” This aptly applies to Nicaragua’s bustling capital city, for to the north is Lake Managua (known locally at Lake Xolotlan), and in the city center is the Tiscapa Lagoon. Beyond its importance as the country’s leading business center, the capital’s points of interest include the National Museum occupying the old National Palace and displaying pre-Columbian artifacts and home to a contemporary art gallery, plus the New Cathedral, a mosque-like Catholic church with 63 domes that allow the natural sunlight in to illuminate the stark interior. The best place for shopping is the Mercado Roberto Huembes, with not only the best selection of national handicrafts, but colorful stalls selling fresh vegetables, fruits and fl owers. Do go see the Ruben Dario Theater—named for Nicaragua’s poet laureate—which exhibits art by the country’s foremost painters and sculptors and is the focal point of much of the country’s cultural activities. Travelers in town for business and/or pleasure will quickly learn that there are very few street signs in Managua, so the Crowne Plaza Managua— near the malecon and the ruins of the Old Cathedral—serves as a landmark for the historic city center. In the business district, the Hilton Princess Managua is a leading choice, while the InterContinental Metro Managua is a luxury option next to the shopping mall. Among elegant boutique-style accommodations, Hotel Los Robles is one of several choices. But from any corner of the capital, no traveler has to look far to find a restaurant serving up that Nicaraguan specialty: great steak.

LEON & GRANADA: COLONIAL GEMS

Colonial Leon was the capital of Nicaragua for more than two centuries, until it was replaced by Managua in 1851. Take time to discover the city’s political, cultural and religious heritage and as a major and lively university town, it’s has found an important place in the 21st century. Leon’s Cathedral is the largest religious colonial building in Central America, full of valuable artworks from frescoes to paintings. There are other churches as well that are architectural masterpieces, such as San Juan Bautita in Subtiava (known as the Nicaraguan Rural Church), La Recoleccion and La Merced. Museums here—Arts and Legends, the house of poet Ruben Dario, and the Ortiz-Gurdian Foundation with a great contemporary art collection—exhibit their own treasures. Colonial is certainly the style in hotels and the oldest, El Convento, is a gem that was rebuilt in 1999. Founded in 1524, Granada, with its beautiful, baroque architecture, is the oldest town in Nicaragua. Its charms start right on the palmtree- fringed main square where fountains splash, ice cream vendors stroll, locals gather around the gazebo, and musicians serenade by night. Go touring from here aboard a colorfully decorated horse-drawn carriage past elegant colonial homes that come in a full palette of tropical colors and visit en-route the museum complex of Convento de San Francisco, the La Merced Church and the ruins of Leon Viejo. Along the lakeshore, there are bars and restaurants, as well as boats that take visitors to Las Isletas, known for its excellent birdwatching. For another excursion option, consider a canopy tour through the treetops of the Mombacho Volcano Cloud Forest. Popular Granada offers guests a wide choice of wonderful little places to stay, including the Hotel Colonial, tucked into an old mansion and La Gran Francia Hotel, occupying a historic inn.

LAKE NICARAGUA

At 100 miles long and 50 miles wide, Lake Nicaragua (locally called Lake Cocibolca) is the largest lake in Central America. While exploring its hundreds of volcanic islands, consider taking a boat from Granada (actually the nearby port of San Jorge) out to the largest island and ecological crown jewel, Ometepe. Accommodations here are small-inn style, but the island is fascinating for it serves as a stopping place for hundreds of migratory bird species and shelters a vast inventory of pre-Columbian petroglyphs and monolithic statuaries. On site, you can make a guided ascent of the Maderas Volcano, rent a mountain bike to ride along the coasts and through coffee plantations, kayak or just lie on a beach. Another great lake-travel option is the Solentiname Archipelago (accessible by boats from San Carlos at the southern end of the lake) that stands apart because of its natural beauty and cultural charm. Here, artist communities turned the region into the cradle of Nicaraguan naive art. Here, too, birdwatchers will be in heaven as Solentiname is a top location for this activity with the best months running from October to April and the top bird-nesting action in November and December.

BY THE SEA

The broadest and most attractive beaches in Nicaragua lie along the Pacifi c Ocean. The largest and most popular resort is the all-inclusive Barcelo Montelimar Beach Resort located 40 miles from Managua. Here, long white beaches beckon and the sea welcomes windsurfers and kayakers. Farther south along the coast is San Juan del Sur, sitting on a sand-fringed, half-moon of a bay and gateway to a dozen beautiful beaches. This picturesque and lively port town—a favorite with scuba divers, sportfishermen and surfers—is home to a few luxury resorts such as the elegant Piedras y Olas Hotel, which overlooks the sea and was an early entry in the area’s resort development, or the newest upscale entry, Hotel Victoriano, right on the beach. San Juan del Sur also happens to be the epicenter of Nicaraguan surfing and Maderas Beach is the big draw April to December. And on land, peak months for observing the nesting of Olive Ridley turtles and leatherbacks is August and September in the La Flor Wildlife Reserve.

It Would Be a Shame to Miss...
From Managua, or Granada, it is easy to plan a day trip to the Masaya National Park, home to the most accessible volcanoes in the country. A road leads up to the edge of Santiago, the most impressive of the volcanic craters, with a perfect viewpoint over the bubbling cauldron below where Pacific green parakeets nest in its crevices. Continue to the town of Masaya, the center of Nicaragua’s folklore culture, to shop ‘till you drop in the Mercado de Artesanos, a super emporium of naïve paintings and other excellent Nicaraguan crafts. A folkloric ballet is held in the market on Thursdays around 5 p.m.
Celebrations for All Seasons
Mar.-early Apr.: Holy Week, with its processions of images borne over colorfully patterned carpets of sawdust.
July 16: The Procession of the Virgin of Carmen, patron saint of fishermen, is carried around the bay to bless the boats. Seafood dining and mariachi music mark the occasion.
Aug.: During the third week of the month, Granada celebrates the Assumption of Mary with fi reworks, concerts in the park, horse parades and bullfights (note: killing the bull is illegal in Nicaragua).
Sept. 30: Masaya holds the 8-day San Jeronimo Fiesta, the most spectacular of all the country’s religious celebrations honoring its patron saint with a procession and an extravaganza of dances, marimbas, parades and fi reworks.
mid-Nov.: Baseball season. Nicaragua’s seven professional teams take the game of baseball very seriously during the season, with the championships in play Mar. 26-Apr. 4.

In Central America, the last stop before South America is Panama, a country that
rewards her visitors with a lively and historic capital, hundreds of miles of beaches on two sea coasts, a melting pot of cultures and an amazing diversity of flora and fauna protected in accessible national reserves—14 national parks and 16 wildlife refuges. International arrivals have increased steadily in the last few years as both business and leisure travelers discover Panama’s many attractions beyond its famous Canal. Another welcome discovery is that the country’s hotel infrastructure is rapidly expanding with hotels in the capital and upscale resorts and lodges by the sea and in the highlands.




PANAMA CITY

Panama City used to be somewhere people traveled through, not to. Until recently, the crossroads capital was a place where travelers stopped only long enough to take a photo at the Canal and do a bit of shopping before moving on to more distant jungles, beaches and islands. But nowadays, not only business travelers, but leisure visitors as well are staying awhile to enjoy modern Panama City, with its prosperous commercial district and first-world infrastructure of 100 banks, a lively nightlife, a delicious restaurant scene and the only rainforest in the world within city limits—the 655-acre Metropolitan National Park. Sprawled along the curve of beautiful Panama Bay, the capital also offers its guests a solid core of international chain hotels—from the InterContinental and the Marriott, to the Radisson Decapolis—as well as more boutique-style properties that include the super-deluxe Bristol and the Canal House in the old city. Newest to the capital is the Buddha Bar Hotel & Spa, a cutting-edge property that mixes Asian styles with French accents. The spa here is a replica of Evian-le-Bains, and the restaurant and bar echo its successful Paris facilities. Incidentally, Le Meridien Panama, overlooking Panama Bay, is scheduled to open mid-year.
Old Panama, called Panama Viejo, is the original settlement site, plundered by pirate Henry Morgan in 1671. Remaining are ruins ranging from the old city hall to a slave market. The city then moved to today’s Casco Viejo district, whose unusual mix of Spanish, French and early-American styles earned this historic quarter a spot on the UNESCO World Heritage list. Here is the place to stroll along the Paseo de las Bovedas atop the defensive wall built by the Spaniards and beneath the wall, with restored dungeons that now house the National Institute of Culture art gallery and a French restaurant. Other sites to see include the remains of the 18th century Santo Domingo Church and Convent and its former chapel, now housing the Museum of Religious Colonial Art, as well as the neoclassical National Theater. And nowadays, restoration work is changing colonial Casco Viejo into a hip neighborhood, with the city’s best nightlife. La Casona de las Brujas—loosely translates to House of the Witches—is just one example of the transformation of Casco Viejo. What was once a Catholic girls’ school has been transformed into one of the funkiest live music venues in the city. Also new to the entertainment scene is the Amador Causeway, a 2-mile breakwater with paths for jogging and biking by day, restaurants and live music venues by night. And coming here soon, the Museum of Biodiversity-Bridge of Life, designed by famed architect Frank Gehry

DAY-TRIPPING FROM THE CAPITAL

The engineering marvel, the famous Panama Canal, remains the economic lifeline of the country and getting a look at or riding right on the famous “Big Ditch,” is an essential component of every first stay in Panama City. There are many ways to see this 50-mile-long waterway that links the 50 miles between the Pacifi c Ocean on the Panama City side and the Caribbean at the port of Colon. From the Mirafl ores Locks observation platform, you have the perfect vantage point to watch ships raised and lowered from lock to lock as they pass between the oceans. Of course, tops on every visitor’s list should be a Canal transit—partial crossings are offered weekly, full transits once a month on Saturdays. To really get a full scope of the whole Canal Zone—and circumnavigate Panama at the same time—consider taking Panama Marine Adventures’ 7-day Journey Between the Seas cruise aboard the deluxe 24-passenger Discovery. Soberania National Park is a world-famous rainforest inside the Panama Canal watershed. Here’s the place to listen to howler monkeys, meet a sloth or two and above all, go birdwatching. The park’s Pipeline Road is the Holy Grail for birdwatchers, and during one Audubon Society Christmas bird count, 357 species were sighted in a 24-hour period. Within the park are two excellent lodgings in which to hang your Panama hat and explore the watery terrain, visit Indian villages and update your bird list—the Gamboa Rainforest Resort and the Canopy Tower Ecolodge.

CHIRIQUI HIGHLANDS

David is the city gateway to Chiriqui, where orchids grow in profusion and visitors come to cool off in the highlands. The leading vacation center is Boquete, whose prosperity comes from harvesting coffee and cultivating flowers. From this perch at 5,000 ft., visitors fan out—say from the Finca Lerida or the Panamonte Inn & Spa—to hike the mountain trails, fi sh, canter about on horseback and raft a river. And Boquete is the place to be to visit the Volcan Baru National Park, with panoramic views and the nation’s highest concentration of the resplendent quetzal. During the dry season (December-March), hikers can view both oceans at once from the volcano’s peak. Going another direction from David, an hour away is Boca Chica, Chiriqui’s new beach destination, with attractive new eco-resorts on and off shore.

BOCAS DEL TORO

This north coast archipelago, Bocas del Toro, is a booming—in an off-the-beaten-path way—destination that offers a quintessential Caribbean eco-adventure getaway. Bocas Town on Isla Colon provides a convenient base from which to explore the fauna and flora of the rainforests or to laze on pristine beaches. By night, making the scene means dining out on rice and beans and grooving to reggae. Day boat trips take visitors to neighboring islands and reefs, as well as to Bastimentos National Park, Panama’s first marine park and home to a variety of sea turtles—nesting time is April to October—and sea birds. The Zapatilla Cays is the destination for snorkelers, divers and beach aficionados. Staying in lively Bocas Town is fun, but the winning accommodations are out of town, off shore at say Punta Caracol Acqua-Lodge or Casa Cayuco, or on shore at Tranquilo Bay.

SAN BLAS ISLANDS

One of the most recognized images of Panama is the mola, the decorative applique that adorns the everyday dress of the Kuna Indians who inhabit the San Blas Islands, just off the north coast of Panama and a short flight from the capital. The Kunas “export” their unique crafts all over the country, but it is certainly more fun to watch molas being stitched on location and select the fi nest. But some of the best rewards are just staying on the islands in modest guest houses like the Akwadup Lodge and the Dolphin Island Lodge. Here, one can swim off white sand beaches, snorkel along colorful coral reefs, taxi between islands in kayaks or dugout canoes, swing in a hammock, or enjoy coconut cocktails and lots of fresh fish.

It Would Be a Shame to Miss...
For action-oriented sportsmen and women, Panama is a many-splendored scene. Hiking can be a historic adventure following the Las Cruces Trail in Soberania National Park. You’ll be walking on part of the road built by the 16th century conquistadors to transport goods and treasures. White-water rafting originated on the challenging rivers of the Chiriqui province—Chiriqui and Chiriqui Viejo, where the best runs are during the rainy season, May to mid-December. For top scuba diving thrills, it’s the Coiba Island National Marine Park, home to the second largest coral reef in the eastern Pacifi c. Here, surrounding waters are inhabited by hammerhead, whale and white-tip sharks, dolphins and sea turtles. More fishing records have been set in Panama than anywhere else on earth. World-class areas include Bahia Pina, whose famous Tropic Star Lodge holds more than 170 world records for the big catches of black marlin and sailfish. Panama’s fine 18-hole championship golf courses lie just outside the capital or a bit farther away along the Pacifi c coast. The newest to the golfi ng scene is the Mantaray Golf Club, designed by Randall Thompson in Farallon. And opening this month in the same coastal area (80 minutes from the capital) will be the Bristol Buenaventura, followed soon by its Nicklausdesigned 18-hole course.
Celebrations for All Seasons
Jan.: The Flowers & Coffee Fair in Boquete, a fiesta of food music and dancing, as well as coffee tasting and fl ower-fi lled fun.
Feb.: The granddaddy of all festivals is the 4-day celebration of Carnaval, held throughout the country before Ash Wednesday. The biggest party is in Panama City, the most traditional in Las Tablas in the Azuero province.
June: Corpus Christi is observed all over Panama, but is particularly festive in Villa de los Santos on the Azuero peninsula.
Sept.: In Bocas del Toro, the International Festival of the Sea is a 5-day event with food stands serving local cuisine, handicraft booths, folkloric dancing and a presentation by the Smithsonian Institute.
Oct.: The Feria de Rio Tigre is a 4-day fair featuring typical foods, dances and music and held on the San Blas Islands.
Oct. 21: Portobelo is the site of the Festival of the Black Christ, which draws thousands of supplicants and spectators to this historic Caribbean town.