Colombia is turning out to be South America’s “come-back kid” in so many ways, including tourism. Indeed, who would have expected Lonely Planet to name Colombia in its top 10 destinations for 2009? Certainly the appealing resort-city of Cartagena is leading the revival, but Colombia is working hard to promote the attractions of its culturally commanding capital, and marketing new products such as its Coffee Route. And the tourist sector is getting a big boost from international hotel chains such as Radisson, Hilton, InterContinental, Marriott, Accor and Hyatt, all of which are in the process of building and renovating properties countrywide. Bypassing trouble spots, travelers are again discovering that Colombia is indeed the gem of two oceans.






BOGOTA
It was in 1538 when the conquistadors officially christened the site of Santa Fe de Bogota de Nuevo Reino de Granada de las Indias del Mar Oceano. Almost five centuries later, the capital has a nice short name, Bogota, a highly contemporary profile, and is home to 57 museums, 35 libraries, 25 churches, and 20 public squares. The skyline is dominated by steel and glass buildings and residential areas mix the styles of Andalucia and Frank Lloyd Wright. Yet upon closer look, you’ll find lovely colonial corridors along which to wander and museums full of ancient to contemporary treasures. The world-famous Museo de Oro is a wonder, packed with thousands of pre-Columbian gold objects and the largest uncut emerald in the world, while the recently opened Donacion Botero houses the permanent collection of Fernando Botero, Colombia’s best-known artist. You’re going to enjoy wandering around La Candelaria, a neighborhood that is practically a museum in itself, visiting exquisite colonial churches and craft markets, sitting in lively cafes or even attending a concert, opera or ballet at the beautiful Teatro Colon. Foreign visitors like to stay in the Bogota North area—one reason may be the Hotel Sofitel Victoria Regina, another perhaps the Charleston Bogota—an easy and safe to walk-about district that is full of good restaurants, classy shopping malls and a Sunday flea market. From Bogota, a day trip to the salt mine of Zipaquira and its immense Salt Cathedral carved out of rock some 450 ft. below ground is a must. For an outing closer in, take the funicular to the top of Monserrate Hill, crowned by an important pilgrimage church. On a clear day, the Andean vistas are grand.

BOUND FOR BOYACA
The Pan American Highway runs north from Bogota to the state of Boyaca, the emerald center of Colombia. The first stop is the capital, Tunja, a city founded in 1539 and often compared to Toledo in Spain, for it is a city of churches and old mansions. One of the loveliest of the latter, the Casa de Juan de Vargas, is now a museum that preserves the atmosphere and details of colonial life. But the gem of the colonial highlands lies 20 miles away: Villa de Leyva, a marvelous colonial town that resembles a setting out of the pages of “Man of La Mancha.” Its treasury includes small convents, monasteries, plazas and patioed homes admirably resorted. Take a weekend break to be here early for the Saturday market, a colorful affair that brings the country fold to town in brilliantly painted local buses called chivas. Stay a night or two in one of the town’s antique-filled inns, gracious, restored former mansions, millhouses or convents. Colonial buildings are also settings for a handful of museums, including the Museo del Carmen, displaying one of the country’s finest religious art collections. Additionally, Villa de Leyva is brimming with art galleries and handicraft shops noted for fine basketry, pottery, candles and weavings. You’re going to find that outside town, visitors enjoy two major pastimes: fossil hunting and horseback riding, and other nearby attractions include craft villages, caves, lakes and waterfalls.

TAKE A “COFFEE BREAK”
An hour’s flight from Bogota, and you land in Armenia, the coffeecountry capital of the Quindio province that joins Risaralda and Caldas to form the country’s coffee crossroads. Rural tourism here focuses on the historical, cultural and economic importance of coffee production, and “The Coffee Trail” circuits lead to the Coffee National Park with its little flower-bedecked farmhouses, a museum tracing the history of coffee and the cafeteros who do the picking, a Quimbayan Indian Cemetery, and a Willys Jeep display. (These vintage vehicles still bring sacks of picked coffee beans down from the mountains.) Learn everything you need to know about coffee at the Recuca plantation, and, of course, spend a few nights hiking, birdwatching or horseback riding in the Cocora Valley or Los Nevados National Park, enjoying the hospitality, comforts, fine dining and great coffee at a traditional hacienda: Casa el Delirio and Hacienda la Cabana.

CARTAGENA
With good reason, visitors are flocking to the colonial jewel of Colombia’s Caribbean coast—Cartagena, a sun-drenched, hospitable, fun-filled seaside resort city. A well-preserved old town and remnants of Spanish Main days of glory give this town a great historical richness (and its designation by UNESCO as a World Heritage site), and the Caribbean provides a frontyard of clear waters, beaches and dozens of offshore islands to explore on a day’s outing. Beguiling attractions include the 16th century fortifications that are the best example of Spanish conquest architecture in the Americas. You can walk the ramparts and wander through a labyrinth of tunnels that lace the massive San Felipe de Barajas Fortress. The best view of this historic domain is from the summit of La Popa, where the Augustinian monks founded the Church and Monastery of Santa Cruz in 1607. Down among the cobblestone streets and plazas of the old city, you’ll find 18th and 19th century houses painted a rainbow of colors—some accommodating enticing restaurants—and churches casting their shadows across leafy plazas. Take time to gape at the Gold Museum’s treasures, to explore the dungeons of Las Bovedas, to shop nonstop in a bevy of smart boutiques, or step into the Church of San Pedro Claver or the recently restored Santo Domingo. The latter boasts a sculpture of Fernando Botero outside its doors. You can’t miss it as you sip your lemonade at a cafe in the plaza named after the church. At the end of a day, call it a night by taking a “spin” through the quiet city in a horse-drawn carriage. In the old quarter, two former convents serve up deluxe comforts in beautiful surroundings: Sofitel Santa Clara and Hotel Charleston. The old city has other delicious choices of boutique hotels, while by the sea, the Cartagena Hilton recently opened its $5 million executive tower, whose suites and panoramic lounge overlook the pool and beach. Have any hotel where you are a guest pack you a picnic when taking off on a day boat ride for the best beaches on offshore islands such as Baru or the Rosario islands. Better yet, order up fresh crab and lobster on site.

It Would Be a Shame to Miss...
Because they seem to love their region more than their country, the natives of the department of Antioquia and its Medellin capital are often called the Texans of Colombia. This is a fresh and prosperous city that has a vibrant arts scene, modern architecture, and stunning mountain views. For a quick overview, take the new metro, whose track runs mostly above ground. A must-stop is at the excellent Museo de Antioquia, housed in the Municipal Palace. Modern art lovers are going to enjoy being in the city of Fernando Botero, whose sculptures are everywhere, while orchid lovers are in for a treat in the Botanical Garden of Joaquin Antonio Uribe. From the city’s best hotel, the InterContinental Medellin, it’s an easy drive to Santa Fe de Antioquia, a well-preserved colonial town with a cathedral and the Church of Santa Barbara.

Celebrations for All Seasons
Feb./Mar.: One of the most boisterous Carnivals on the continent takes place in Barranquilla.
Mar./Apr.: The southwestern city of Popayan stages the country’s grandest religious processions during Holy Week.
Aug.: The Festival of Flowers takes place in Medellin early in the month.
Sept.: The beat heats up in Cali during the World Salsa Festival.
Oct.: Bogota hosts a Jazz Festival this month, and a Film Festival.
Nov.: The National Beauty Pageant, a major event on the Colombian calendar, takes place in Cartagena.